Epi Island
We left Havana Bay through the Furuma Channel and sailed wing-on-wing for 66 nautical miles in ten hours until we reached Laman Bay at Epi Island. The sun was about to set, but we found good holding. A local ferry approached the beach, and many islanders got ashore despite the big swell. We made a short trip with our dinghy with the idea of touching land, but the swell was too strong. By now, we have learned to listen to the wobbly feeling of insecurity and not tempt fate. We have learned to respect the sea and decided to call it a day.
The night was the rolliest we have experienced on Yaghan so far. Sleep was impossible as we grappled and slammed into each other until daylight. This was definitely not Sandman Bay! The thought of finding dugongs in the bay felt as distant as the idea of Christmas in June.
Sailing to Ambrym
With the first gentle sunrays, we heaved the anchor and sailed to Ambrym, the second of the Vanuatu Islands with an active volcano. Climbing the mountain alone is not allowed, and for several months, the volcano is considered tabu to avoid disturbing the spirits preparing for the yam harvest.
Ambrym Island
The northwest coast of the mountainous island was swept by katabatic winds, prompting us to maintain a safe distance from the shoreline. After seven hours, we anchored peacefully on the black volcanic sands just outside the village of Ranon.
The ocean lies calm and peaceful. It is a Sunday afternoon, and on the beach, children greet us warmly, helping with the dinghy. We ask an old man if it’s alright to explore, and with his approval, we follow a path where we meet Winnie and her two young children. She is waiting for her husband and eldest son to return from work in New Zealand for the son’s wedding in July. While they are awaiting many guests, they are in the process of building a new house made from palm tree leaves for the venue.
The next day, we stroll through the neighborhood again and meet Willy, a teacher. Currently, the school is on a two-week holiday. Ambrym is famous for its wood carvings, so we ask Willy for directions to a carpenter. He says, “Just go to the concrete house where you see a rotten car, and you’ll find Samuel.”
We locate the rusty car and ask a young woman in the concrete building, which is a newly opened shop. She tells us that Samuel is her uncle and kindly shows us the way. Samuel’s statues are beautifully carved, featuring traditional ancient patterns. He mostly sells his masks and statues to cruise ship visitors. We purchase a mask figuring a man and a woman—and receive some papayas as a gift.
Fantastiskt fint! Sköt om Er!
Bästa hälsningar
Pia och Carl
Tack skall ni ha! Roligt att ni läser!
Tack för att ni delar med er av era fantastiska upplevelser. Ni är verkligen modiga och öppna för att ta in det okända förutom att vara kompetenta seglare. Thomas
Hjärtligt tack Thomas! Vi blir extra glada att få läsa en hälsning här långt hemifrån. Hälsningar Nilla och Anders
Härligt att se att ni har många fina upplevelser.
Ha en fortsatt härlig segling.
Ingmar
Kära Ingmar,
Tack skall du ha! Vi blir jätteglada för hälsningar här!
Nilla o Anders