Sailing across the equator to Galapagos

Tricky decision

Long time in advance we had to make the decision whether we were going to stop at the Galapagos while sailing to the Marquesas or not. It was one of the harder decisions to make, since the bureaucracy is quite demanding and the expenses high, but on the other hand it’s a once in a lifetime chance to see the exceptional sea and land life of Galapagos while being there with your own boat. We didn’t want to miss it.

Preparing for the Galapagos

Nilla contacted Javier from Yacht Agents Galapagos and he sent us dozens of  documents explaining how to prepare for the Galapagos islands. On our WhatsApp group, one boat also published a compendium with photos and good examples of what was important to know while preparing for the Galapagos and also informing on nice excursions on four of the islands. We got a “Professional Hull Cleaning Certificate” from the Shelter Bay Marina and we also managed to get a fumigation done before we set sail from Playita Marina in Panama City.  The further requirements where an international zarpe, a list of the last ten ports visited and, last but not least, a certification of our antifouling paint. Before we set off, we put required signs, saying “don’t throw garbage in the  water” in the engine room on the reeling and on every bin.

Companied by Dolphins

On March 2^nd we leave Playita Marina in Panama City shortly after eight in the morning.  First sunset on the Pacific Ocean. The first six hours we were mainly motoring until sailing in 6-7 knots in 14-15 knots downwind. It was a great joy to finally sail on the largest ocean, glittering in sunshine. On March 3^rd 660NM out of 780NM to Galapagos remained. Wind strength was fading, and we got just below 4kts speed over ground and could enjoy a green flash on the ocean. Magic, calm moonlight was lightening up our night on the Pacific and next day we were halfway from Panama to Galapagos. With only making 2-3 knots we sailed slow and then motor for some hours when the wind died out. Slowly the wind picked up above 7 knots again and we sailed, jibed, the wind died, and we continued motoring for 10 hours. On March the 5^th a flock of dolphins enjoyed the pacific sunset with us.

Pacific squid

Crossing the Equator

We had been quite worried about sailing the distance from Panama to Galapagos, because friends of us have had thunderstorms, strong winds on the nose and big waves. Luckily we didn’t get anything of that. The Pacific was peacefully flat as a blue ball floor. We rig the whisker pole again and sail with 8 to 10 knots. In the afternoon Captain Anders is making Tarta de Queso a la Yaghan. Nilla is braiding a Neptun beard out of lemon straw for Anders. All in preparation for our Tribute to Poseidon when we might be crossing the equator the coming day.

On the morning of  March the 7^th we sail over the imaginary line of the equator at 0 degrees latitude and are no longer pollywogs but shellbacks. Happy to be exactly half distance between the north pole and the south pole. We cheered to the very good health of Poseidon, enjoyed captain’s cheesecake and took a swim in the clear blue water.

Reaching Galapagos

We continue southwards and at noon we finally see the silhouette of the enchanted island of Galapagos rising above the surface. It feels amazing to see the contour of the islands that we have heard so much about, mainly due to Darwins theories. We dropped anchor in BAHIA DE LA ACADEMIA on SANTA CRUZ in GALAPAGOS at 3PM. Soon thereafter our local agent arrived with the immigration clearance team.  All together eight representatives of the government, immigration, police, coast guard, environmental control, etc. inspecting and documenting the ship, food stores, machinery, holding tanks, navigational lights and at least 10 different forms were filled and sign by them and us. All in a very friendly atmosphere. The process was completed in about 40 min and Nilla then served ice cold beers which seemed to be much appreciated in the afternoon tropical heat.